Food & Drink
Can Khandoker do it right in Bramhall? |
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Rowena Forbes searches for fine food – and finds familiar faces – at Bramhall’s latest contemporary Indian restaurant… Opening night at any restaurant is a tricky night to give a review. On the one hand, the reviewer has an unrealistic, perhaps overpositive idea of the usual atmosphere and clientele – doubtless aided by plenty of celebratory champagne – while on the other hand the restaurant has the challenge of inexperienced staff trying to prepare and serve an as-yet unfamiliar menu to a large crowd of curious guests. First impressions were pleasing At Khandoker Bramhall, however, the challenge was further complicated by the fact that two major investors in the new restaurant were also the owners of this magazine – and thus the employers of this particular reviewer. Could I remain unbiased in this situation? Thankfully, Salim and Beverley – who were rushing around gamely on the night, meeting, greeting and generally making sure everything ran smoothly – were keen to know my real opinion of their new venture, so I was happy to oblige. First impressions were pleasing – and not just because of the free glass of welcoming champagne. The décor is classic contemporary and professionally executed: a black and white, abstract-patterned, floral feature wall dominates the view, with dark wood chairs and white leather seats, feathery black lanterns on the walls and spot ceiling lighting complementing the overall look and feel. A little neon blue lighting at the bar brings a splash of colour to the scene. Upstairs, an additional seating area manages to feel just as important as the main area downstairs, so guests don’t feel as though they’re likely to be shunted away and forgotten; they have their own small bar and dedicated waiting staff. A little cosier than the main area downstairs, but well laid out, it’s likely to be popular in the future with functions. Starting – of course – with popadums (70p each), we soon found ourselves fighting over the fourth addition to the three standard dips of minty raita, fruity mango chutney and sweet chopped onions – this was a variation on the onion dish, but with an unusual, appealing smoky flavour, and a few finely chopped green chilis that brought a real bite to the dip. Perusing the mains, I decided to choose one of the less familiar dishes on the menu and ordered Kakri chicken – diced chicken marinated in a tandoori sauce and served with brinjal (£9.45). M wanted to stray outside his comfort zone of bhunas and dupiazas, so I recommended he try chicken Makoni (£9.45), cooked in butter, tomatoes and a creamy spiced sauce. We added a side of aloo ghobi (£7.95), pilau rice (£2.45) and a garlic naan (£2.45) to the table. As designated driver, I was on the lemonade, while M ordered a pint of Cobra, lip-smackingly refreshing as ever. Always a fan of brinjal (aubergine), I enjoyed my dish, which was generously proportioned with large chunks of chicken and plenty of rich sauce. The naan and rice were suitably fluffy and tasty. However, M wished he’d stuck with his usual favourites when the Makoni unexpectedly contained a hefty proportion of coconut milk, which made the dish taste sweet and wasn’t to his taste. One to try As it turned out, we probably should have said something earlier, since when I finally mentioned it to the managers after the meal, they were dismayed by what they realised must have been a mix-up and offered us a choice of something different. By this time, however, M had filled up on my dish and we didn’t feel the need to order more. The potatoes were rather large and a little undercooked in the aloo ghobi, although the flavours of the sauce and the texture of the cauliflower couldn’t be faulted. Verdict: Khandoker Bramhall 0161 439 0055 / 0161 439 1050
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